April 25th 2008

 

The Lessons of the Iraq War

By Dana Visalli

 

I have just completed the second of two visits to the Kurdish area of Iraq this year.  While there, I had the opportunity to observe economic and environmental conditions in northern Iraq and converse with Iraqi citizens, both Kurdish and Arab, about the impact of the on-going war and life in general. 

 

The perception that dominates my senses is how worn both the land and the people are.  Kurdistan happens to be one of the primary areas of the emergence of what we call civilization.  The first archeological records for animal husbandry (goats, sheep and dogs) and agriculture (wheat and barley) appear in Kurdistan 11,000 years ago.  The landscape, once covered with oak trees, is now almost completely deforested, except in the high mountains.  Natural vegetation has largely been replaced by invasive, weedy species, some of which doubtless evolved insitu.  The hills literally sag under the weight of the thousands of years of grazing, creased by innumerable ruminant feeding trails.

 

The people are sagging as well. I was impressed with what could be called the “conservation of motion” of the populace.  The majority of people spend the day sitting—along sidewalks, on street corners, along roads, in their homes.  This is due in part to a moribund economy—there is little work to be had—and  it may also be due in part to an unhealthy diet (composed largely of meat and white bread) and depleted agricultural soils.  It was commonplace for young people to tell me that there was no hope for a meaningful life for them in Kurdistan; most want to leave.  One young man said that by 30 years of age Kurds lose all hope for a better life.

 

Like most civilized people, the Iraqis and Kurds are ecologically illiterate.  The population of the country is growing rapidly, while all critical resources—water, food, energy, fertilizers—are depleting.  Kurds love to go on picnics in the country, although they never venture more than 100 feet from the car.  They will push accumulated plastic trash aside in a scenic picnic spot in order to spread a blanket and enjoy a meal, and then they add their refuse to the collection when they depart.

 

The niche of many women in Iraq is the role defined by conservative Islam, which is that of a slave class, subservient to the dominant male.  In the smaller cities and towns women are rarely out on the streets, and when they are they are covered from head to toe with the all-concealing abaya, the full body cape.  Women are typically quite overweight by about 30 years of age, and get little exercise, so that they walk with a stiff list from side to side that caused one western observer to compare them to penguins.  So-called honor killings can still occur in Kurdistan—in which a girl or woman is killed by a relative for spending even platonic time with an unapproved male—as does genital mutilation of females.

 

Many human behaviors have their corollary in the larger world of nature.  All living organisms are protective of their own specific DNA in its recombined form as offspring, or children.  There are innumerable behavioral options for assuring genetic fidelity of offspring in the natural world.  Among insects these behaviors run the gamut from species of moths in which the female never develop wings and scarcely emerges from her pupal cocoon, to praying mantises, in which the females kill and eat the males after mating.  The Islamic methodology follows the pattern of the flightless moth, keeping the female helpless and homebound.

 

I read several field reports written by an environmental group conducting habitat surveys in Iraq, and found passages such as the following commonplace: “The water pollution is evident to both the eye and nose; there is a strong stench arising from decomposing garbage and/or sewage…..Fishing in the region is conducted both by electro-fishing and utilizing pesticide and other chemical toxins…. Dead fish were present during the survey, killed by toxic chemicals used in fishing…There are many villages in the area and the river is a major shipping channel, so there is pollution from oil and sewage...”

 

It is within this context of a time-weary and belief-burdened society that they recent wars in Iraq have taken place. These include the 1980-88 Iran-Iraq war (fueled by 100 billion dollars of US weapons sales, to both sides in the conflict), the 1991 Gulf War, the US-imposed economic sanctions on and bombing of Iraq from1991-2003, and the current open-ended second Iraq War.  These conflicts of course take a toll not only on people but on social infrastructure and on the earth as well.  And so it is that in environmental field survey reports that I read there are passages such as “Site was visited in the summer of 2007, when the crew was shot at… The area was chemically bombed in the 1980s and there is evidence of destroyed homes in the valley….There are many mine fields in the area and there was heavy fighting here during the Iran-Iraq war….During the survey period the area faced occasional Iranian bombing…”

 

The young people growing up in Iraq today have known war for most of their lives.  Ranj, who is 28, tells of working in Baghdad in the early days of the current war.  One hot day while driving to work with the window down there was an explosion nearby, and he found himself showered with human blood and bits of fingers and other human tissue.  He had to return home and wash up.  On another occasion—he was working as a translator for the US military—he opened his front door to find a dead body laid neatly across the doorway.  Fearing he might be implicated in the death he stuffed the body in his car and drove around for an hour with the putrifying corpse before he found a place to dump it.  Taking the message left on his doorstep to heart, he fled to the north of the country.

 

Such experiences are commonplace for Iraqis.  Mellich told me that she had a good friend killed in an explosion but that, “It’s OK.”  I asked her why this was OK, and she responded that Iraqis have become used to death.  “We used to say, when someone dies, ‘We will remember you forever.’  Now we say, they die in the morning, and we forget them in the afternoon.”

 

Ibrahiem powerfully characterized the current state of affairs in Iraq in this way: “My father was a rebel against the government, and so he was killed by Saddam Hussein.  I hate that man so much.  But when I see what is happening in Iraq today, I realize it was better under Saddam.”

 

Iraq was a broken society before the United States invaded in 2003.  13 years of sanctions had destroyed the economy of the country, while the US bombing of water treatment plants and electrical power stations in the Gulf War led to disease and an increasing death rate, especially among children.  Such was the state of Iraq when the US attacked in March of 2003.  The U.S. has to date spent $550 billion dollars on the current war, during which time an estimate one million Iraqis have been killed, and 4.5 million have been made into homeless war refugees.  Clean drinking water and electricity have become vanishingly rare, malnutrition and unemployment are rampant, and sewage runs in the streets.

 

Taking in the larger sweep of history, it can be seen that the Iraqis have been destroying themselves by degrees for centuries through over-population and environmental degradation, and the U.S. has now shown up to finish the job.  It is ironic that the debt the U.S. has incurred in the process of destroying Iraqi society, in combination with our own ecological illiteracy, now promises to cause a breakdown of this country as well. 

 

What becomes clear from this litany of sorrow is that human society is insane.  This is a disturbing realization, but it is a helpful clarification.  If you see it, it is good to let in sink in for a minute: we are insane. 

 

What to do?  We have arisen from a dynamic and evolving universe.  Really: initially there were only hydrogen atoms, and from that simple beginning all the beauty, complexity and confusion of the world has arisen.  Human life is not about nothing, it is about something, we are a infinitesimally small molecular slice of the universe expressing itself in new and creative ways—that’s what the universe does, it experiments.  Obviously something new is trying to emerge in the human species, something is struggling to be liberated from the biological imperatives of the genes.

 

Only individuals can participate in this process; the revolution will not be televised.  Are you going to spend your life paying for the death of other people (war and the military--billionaire complex) and the destruction of the environment, or are you going to choose sanity?  It’s completely up to you.  Are you going to realize that your authentic primary relationship is one-to-one with the living earth, or are you going to continue to try to please the judge, the outside authority, your self-image, your father, the so-called government?  Are you going to participate in the very simple, basic ecological reality that we live on a finite planet where all matter cycles (while energy flows through from the sun), and there is no such thing as waste?  If you are you will want to compost the byproducts of your bodies metabolism—your excrement, your greatest gift to the biosphere, the real fruit of your life’s work.  This is how to stop the war, this is how to help the exhausted land and people of the Cradle of Civilization.  If you don’t want to participate in the revolution then stop pretending you do.  If you do want to participate, then now is the hour and this is the moment.

 

“What I stand for is what I stand on.”    Wendell Berry

 

 

 

Jan 28th 2008

 

Greetings;

 

I had an interesting experience here in Suleimaniya today I'd like to share.

 

I had become aware that there was some kind of on-going protest at a public park in town.  I was able to go to this site with an interpreter.   There is a big army-style tent set up in there, where a group of young people have been vigiling for 140 days now. 

 

What about?  About the fact that there is little or no opportunity for young people to create meaningful lives for themselves in Kurdistan.   By 'meaningful' they are not asking for so much; basically just a decent education and some way to make a living as adults.  They have 14 talking points that they are requesting the regional government to acknowledge; I got four of them written down:

 

1. Creating some kind of job potential for young people; building factories was mentioned, so they were only asking for the potential of even a factory job.

2. Decent medical care for young people, including sending critically ill people out of the country when necessary for advanced care, instead of letting them die.

3. Lowering the age limit for political candidates from 30 to 23.

4. Giving new families a grant of money so that they have a chance to acquire a roof over their heads.

 

The other side of the issue is the high level of nepotism and corruption in the Kurdish government.  The best extreme example of this is the widespread suspicion that Prime Minister Nechirvan Barzani has between $2-14 billion stashed in European banks.   I have run into several of Vice-president Jalul Talabani's very large country estates in my travels outside Suleimaniya. 

 

This group has been harassed by the KRG—Kurdistan Regional Government, and even threatened with violence and death.   Their comment was, "We will not give up."

 

An interesting twist came when they asked me, "What advice do you have for us?" 

 

I might challenge you in the same way, what might there be to say under such circumstances?

 

At first I could think of nothing.  As the conversation continued, several things came to mind.   Here's what I came up with—for better and for worse—this is just the ongoing challenge of how to respond to the world we find ourselves in.

 

I asked them if they had read any Gandhi.  I thought of him because of 1) his ability to honor even his adversaries, and 2) his interest in creating simple and independent lifestyles that would not concentrate power in the hands and heads of a few people.

 

Along these same lines, I pointed out that factory jobs would mean they would still be dependent on the government; is there any way they could create an livelihood on their own?   Not to be presumptuous here; these are poor people.  But Gandhi was spinning wool and making his own clothes.  

 

I also said that I didn't think there would be any way for people to regain their freedom without incorporating ecology into the movement.   I didn't expect them to know what I meant, and indeed they asked what I meant by 'ecology.'   But I am so impressed by how degraded the land is here, with the oak forests that once covered vast swathes now all gone.   We talked about this a bit, and a useful avenue opened up when my interpreter Ihsen and I told them about the 'Green Kurdistan' movement—people planting trees throughout the region.   They will be able to get in touch with the leaders of this movement in Suliemaniya.

 

That's what I could think of.  What seems most interesting here is the challenge; how can we think about our world and how can we respond to it in ways that are meaningful to us?

 

I was also very cognizant, while sitting with them, of the news I saw yesterday that the US Congress has approved a $696 billion war budget for next year, and that the Iraq war is now expected to cost $2 trillion.   How many meaningful jobs could those resources have supplied in the world, how many trees to plant, how many solar panels, how many simple homes for people?  

 

Sincerely,

 

Dana

 

Vigil1sm

 

Jan 22nd 2008

 

Dear Friends;

 

Before I go to work writing up my summary story about my 4 weeks in Kurdish Iraq, which I can tell is going to have serious overtones, I thought it would behoove me to share a few of the more personal interactions I've had with our brothers and sisters here, half way around the globe. 

 

A very interesting interaction for me occurred just today (Jan 22th).  Our 'field survey crew' had to drive for 2 hours to the south of Suleimaniya, to a spot on the Diyala River, to gather various sorts of data.  I wandered off with the bird guy, Korsh, but after about half an hour we got separated, and there I was along, standing on the banks of the Diyala River by myself.  There were some plover-type birds across the river, and I had 'Birds of the Middle East' with me, so I knelt down to try to sort them out.

 

It wasn't long before I heard a clearing-the-throat kind of sound, and turned to see an elder Kurdish gent emerging from the brush.  Waving seems to make everything OK around here; I waved, and he smiled and walked over to me.  So there we were, I not knowing a word of Kurdish and he not a word of English.  I showed him the bird book, and the binoculars, and pointed to the birds, and he smiled broadly and said something, I of course don't have a clue what.  Kurds love Americans---there are several ironies here, one is that 30 miles further south in Arab Diyala Province the insurgency is still raging--- and I realized I could try to tell him in Arabic that I was an American.  I said, 'Ana Amerikankee.'  His smiled broadened, and then laughed and laughed.  Ah, it's good to be an American.

 

Later, when I rejoined Korsh and told him the story, he said 'No, no, Amerikanitz......Americkankee means your are an American woman.'  No wonder the old man got a belly laugh out of the exchange. 

 

But, there is still the great charm of two people from opposite sides of the planet, genetically separated for 10,000 years, having a warm and entertaining exchange at the edge of a beautiful river.  A picture of my new friend is attached below.

 

The other event to tell you about is slightly less sanguine, and hopefully the two pictures that really illustrate the event will come through, as they are certainly worth a thousand words.  One of the members of Nature Iraq is a volitile Arab from Baghdad.  He is friendly enough, but one day last week he got riled up and pulled out a box-cutter knife.

 

As it happens he wears an ear-muff over one eye, to hide and old injury from the US invasion, see photo one.  When he pulled the knife, there was another set of ear muffs sitting on the table.  Somebody thought to put the second pair over his other eye, and he immediately became docile, thinking night had fallen (see second pic of this event). 

 

We are reporting this event to the US military, and encouraging them to stock up on earmuffs.

 

peace & love,

 

Dana

 

 

 

Wed 1-16-2008

The Wine-colored, Blood-stained, Red Badge of Courage

by Dana Visalli

 

Life here in Iraq is not so different than it is at home in the United States, except that the electricity keeps going off while I am slicing vegetables for dinner, which means I am then wielding a sharp knife in the pitch dark.   Not only am I brandishing a sharp knife in the darkness, but the poorly made knife handle keeps falling off from the blade just about the time the lights go out, making dinner preparation a trying task indeed.

 

This is not an insurmountable problem, because about thirty seconds after the city electricity goes off the big diesel generator out on the street roars to life—in fact all the big diesel generators on the block roar to life, as there is one for every house in this well-to-do district of Suleimaniya.   From the kitchen window I notice that the rest of the city stays dark much longer than does our block.  One can only imagine how the millions of Iraqi IDPs—Internally Displaced Persons—from the on-going war are faring in their wind-battered tent camps without power.

 

The electricity failing is less of a problem than the fact that the water pipes in the house have frozen repeatedly.   The issue here in this community house is that the toilets won't flush when the water doesn't flow, so the human effluenza quickly begins to back up in the toilet bowl.  Fortunately I am working with a group of environmentalists, and we understand the importance of sustainable flushing.   We resolved this conundrum by simply purchasing bottled water by the case, and use the handy pint-sized bottles of spring water to fill the toilet tank and flush the bowl, thereby maintaining the ecological equilibrium of the house.   The war refugees in their camps don't have flush toilets, so they are not troubled by this breakdown in modern domestic infrastructure.

 

I confess, when the toilets failed, my own personal ecological orientation drove me out into the backyard in the freezing winds of the early morning's light, where I furtively jabbed a hole in the clay soil with butter knife in order to contribute a token amount of fertilizer to the humus-starved soil of the Cradle of Civilization.   Contravening social mores by briefly rejoining the Great Cycle of Being was a frightening experience though, and I resolved to henceforth adhere to the Law of the Pack and shit in the toilet, which I had in any case been compelled to swear to back when I was a Cub Scout.

 

Flushing the toilets is, in the larger picture, less of a problem than doing the laundry, because the washing machine requires water and electricity at the same time, which is a rare conjunction of resources.  Being a neophyte here I was unprepared for the potential pitfalls of employing the washer.   Immediately after throwing all my clothes in and starting the cycle the electricity failed, and then that night the pipes froze.  My dampened clothes sat in the washer for four days, while several species of mold attempted to digest any nutrients present on them before blind luck aligned water and power again.   The multitudes of refugees from the war (estimated to total 4.5 million inside and outside Iraq, one of the great human migrations to nowhere in all of human history) are spared this misery as they have no running water nor machines to freeze.

 

It came as a shock to discover that it gets very cold in northern Iraq in the winter, so cold that even antifreeze congeals into ice, especially in the radiators of the generators.   In apparent defiance of the laws of physics, this can occur at temperatures just below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, much warmer than it occurs in North America.   The explanation for this anomaly appears to be that Iraq merchants have realized that the shortage of antifreeze in the country could be quickly and simply resolved by adding water to this chemical concoction, vastly increasing the quantity of antifreeze available to the general public.   This concernth not the masses of refugees from America's war in Iraq, for they have neither radiators nor antifreeze to worry about.

 

All of these issues pale, however, when one considers the hazards of simply finding something to drink in Iraq.   After ten days without even a drop of wine, I had decided to seek out one of the few Christian-run liquor stores in this non-alcoholic Muslim city.  An Iraqi friend drove me to one such store, but as I got out of the car he admonished me to "make it quick" because "someone was shot to death just yesterday" for buying liquor in Suleimaniya.   I did a rapid assessment of my mental resolve, and then in an uncharacteristically courageous act dashed into the store to make the purchase. 

 

The United States government demonstrated its courage and resolve on the very same day, when it dropped 40,000 pounds of bombs in just 10 minutes—that would be about $10 million dollars worth of explosives dropped by a billion dollars worth of aircraft—on an impoverished farming village just south of Baghdad.   We don't know how many were killed because "the United States does not do body counts," but we can rest assured that this courageous act will liberate another group of Iraqis from the drudgery of home life and swell the tide of refugees flowing outward into the larger world.

 

 Impressions of Kurdistan

 

The landscape in Kurdistan is austere in the extreme, due in part to the general aridity of the area, and in part to the impact of 10,000 years of human civilization.  The land is nearly devoid of vegetation.  Granted it is winter here, but there is often no sign that anything green grew on the hills in summer.  Like McPhee’s Basin and Range, the lack of vegetation creates a certain stark beauty, because the jagged edges of the ancient sedimentary rock are laid bare to see, dipping, striking and twisting, often turned upend at 90 degrees, rising several thousand feet above the plain to form jagged mountain ridges.

 

Exactly what it is that the pervasive goats, sheep and cows are surviving on is something of a mystery, but the wrinkled, horizontal aging lines across of the “bovigenic” landscape are a testament to their presence here for thousands of years.  How do the people survive?  I don’t know the answer to that; my guess is that the growing population is supported by the global petroleum culture.  The primary foods are meat-kabobs and white-flour flat bread.  I have seen only one or two postage-stamp sized gardens.  I have walked across several agricultural fields which would one would have thought were a rocky wastelands, except that the heavy clay soil had parallel furrows in it, disked by a tractor in preparation for planting wheat in the spring.  The soil dries rock-hard, due to the absence of humus, although plastic bags blowing across the landscape take root in the fields and impart a certain friability to the dirt. I'm sure people would be shocked at the idea of rejoining the cycle of life by returning the flow of nutrients coming from their bodies back into the soil.

 

The weather has been what I could call “continental”---cold and windy.  In fact the temperature dropped to 22 degrees the night before last and the wind howled until morning; in my pleasant, concrete bedroom the curtains danced to the marauding wind, and the generator-driven electric heater worked overtime to keep the room above 40 degrees.  In the morning the water pipes were frozen at both of the NatureIraq buildings, and the diesel had jelled in the generators.  In an impressive turn of events, the antifreeze had also frozen in the radiators.  How could this be possible at 22 degrees?

Because this is the 3rd World, and the antifreeze had been spiked with water before it was sold.

 

Frozen antifreeze and jelled diesel were the problems of the well-to-do yesterday morning; one can only imagine how the thousands of Iraqi refugees living in tents at the edge of town fared; they certainly didn’t have any diesel to worry about (I hope to visit this camp while here).

Out on the streets, fuel is sold in 5-gallon jugs, and old tires are regularly set alight at the edge of the road as a sort of cheery but smoky campfire.

 

Surely one of the most astonishing elements of human existence is how far we have traveled from ecologically intelligent, reality-based cultures.

Here in Kurdistan, as in much of the world, the human population booms while the very foundation of life--the soil, water and energy bases--shrink.  The people eat refined food laced with white sugar and fat.  How is it possible to be literally made of the earth, made over millions of years of wind, sand and stars, and yet to be so alienated from the roots of our existence?

 

The curious counterpoint is the almost-predictable countenance of both the Kurds and the Arabs; they are just the sweetest, friendliest, most animated people imaginable.  I have been in the presence of 5 Americans since my arrival here, and really none of them have the simple, child-like spontaneous pleasure-in-living that one experiences with these local people, beset with troubles though they be.  This is not a judgment, just an observation.

 

By-the-way, NatureIraq was started by an Iraqi-American, Azzam Alwash, and his all-American wife Suzi.  Azzam is currently here in Suleimaniya, he is a bright, passionate, uninhibited man who is dedicated to restoring the marshlands and as much of Iraqi nature as might be humanly possible.  He is also a Republican who said he would vote for McCain if he could, welcomed the US invasion and occupation of his country, and is aware of the approach of the peaking of global oil production, but doesn’t expect it to be a problem for our generation or the next, but perhaps in “500 or a 1000 years.”

 

I’m telling you, god loves a paradox.

 

Be well,

 

Dana

 

Mission Accomplished

 

Many people have fled from the violence that has ravaged south and central Iraq since the United States took control of these areas in 2003.  At least two million Iraqis are refugees in Jordan and Syria, and another two million are “internally displaced people,” refugees inside the country.

Most of these people have not only left their homes, they have also lost their homes, because a process of ethnic cleansing has rearranged Sunni and Shia families as if they were pieces on a chess board.  Shias now live in homes recently occupied by Sunni, and visa versa.

 

Mere numbers can never communicate the reality of a situation—four million Iraqi refugees since the invasion, one million Iraqis estimated killed, two million wounded.  One can only imagine the impact on individual lives, the amount of suffering, contained within those numbers.

 

On Friday I visited the Quala refugee camp in Suleimaniya.  The camp began as three families from Baghdad squatting out on the edge of town, but now contains over 600 people living in tents supplied by the UNHCR—the United Nations High Commission for Refugees.  The camp is located in a broad, open expanse of concrete building rubble, with a few plastic water tanks scattered about where the inhabitants can come to fill jugs.  There is apparently no garbage pickup, as there are ample quantities of plastic and other debris scattered about.

 

My translator and I picked our way through the rubble to a teahouse-tent, where we were able to meet with the mayor of the camp, Halid.  With hookas lining one wall, we were clearly in a public space, but for most of the duration of our conversation there were just the three of us, sitting cross-legged on the floor around a kerosene heater.

 

Halid was happy when the Americans attacked his country in 2003.  He said we would like to thank Bush personally for sending American troops.  Some years before the invasion, when he was required to report for military duty, he was three days late getting to the army recruitment center.  His sister, who was pregnant, was having an operation, and he felt that he needed to remain at home to help her.  He was tried by Saddam Hussein’s government for desertion and sentenced to death, later reduced to 15 years in prison.  He was in Abu Ghraib for 6 years, and was only released when Saddam emptied the prison just before the U.S. offensive began.  Halid was tortured during his incarceration, and pointed out missing front teeth and an angry scar on his head to prove the point.

 

Sectarian violence increased in Iraq in 2004 and 2005.  Halid’s sister and brother were slaughtered in Baghdad—that is the word the translator used.

Halid wept silently as he conveyed this.  He is Sunni, married to a Shia woman.  The Mehdi Army caught him in early 2006 and was going to kill him—because he was a Sunni—but his wife begged for his life.  The Mehdi did let him go, but only on the condition that he divorce his wife and leave Baghdad.  It was then that Halid and his wife departed, together, for Suliemaniya.

 

Life in the camp is difficult.  Men go to town looking for work, but there is none; women go to town to beg for food and money.  The children are filthy  It is cold in camp—temperatures in Sulemaniya in January are 20-30 degrees at night, with strong winds.  One can only imagine what it is like in summer, when temperatures outside reach 120 degrees.  The only electricity available in camp comes from small generators, and heat from kerosene burners, with the gasoline and kerosene increasingly expensive.

Food is distributed once a month by UNICEF.

 

I asked Walid if he would still like to thank Bush, after all he has been through since the war started.  He answered, with tears in his eyes, “Yes, but why can’t he order peace?  If he can order war why can’t he order peace?

Tell Bush I cry over the situation in Iraq.”

 

 

 

 

messages from Iraq.(March 7th 2004)

 

 

Architects of War and Peace

 

The leading Shia cleric in Baghdad, Sayyid Ali Mussawi Al Waadh, said in a recent interview, "The Iraqi people have suffered enough."  And so they have.  The air in Baghdad smells and tastes like burning tires. Much of landscape looks like it was set in place by a fleet of dump trucks.  Sewage oozes out of cracks in the street while buildings crumble and electrical supply sputters and runs dry.  The 200 billion dollars spent by the West to bomb and pummel Iraq during the two Gulf Wars hasn't improved the lives of the Iraqi people one iota.  Twelve years of sanctions not only ensured that Saddam Hussein would not buy new and improved weapons, but also that the garbage trucks wouldn't run, drinking water wouldn't be chlorinated, the sick wouldn't get medicine and children wouldn't get textbooks or even pencils (pencils were on the sanctions list until 1998 because the U.S. feared the graphite in them could be used for arms manufacture).  In this context it is all the more remarkable, in the midst of this decay and disintegration, that individuals and organizations are arising, Sphinx-like, to serve the needs of the people and the land.

 

Alexander Christof was sitting pretty in Germany in 1995,  an increasingly wealthy architect drawing plans for increasingly wealthy clients.  But he was increasingly discontent with his life, gorged as it was on possessions, power and prestige but devoid of the satisfaction of serving the real needs of the human community.  The emotional aridity of his life finally compelled him to make changes.  He divested himself of his business, took stock of the skills he had to could respond in some way to the abiding needs of the human family, and together with his wife started Architects for People in Need, or APN.  In 2001 APN came to Iraq, to try to offer to the Iraq people the basic amenities of life that their own government and the governments of the world had denied to them.

 

By the time I visited Alexander in February of this year in Baghdad, APN had a staff of over 50 highly skilled Iraqi professionals working on water purification in rural areas, remedial education for older, unschooled children, and basic health and emergency care in the countryside.

 

Alexander points out that the most basic requirements of life were disrupted by the Gulf Wars and the sanctions-water, sewage, food and health care. Water purification plants were destroyed by allied bombing in the first Gulf War, and reconstruction was made impossible because repair parts were on the sanctions list, as was chlorine.  In the largest govenorate in Iraq, 28 out of 30 purification plants are out of service.  People in rural areas along the Tigris and Euphrates commonly drink out of the river, even though the water is polluted and saline.

 

I asked Alexander what motivated him to take on such a daunting task, working under hazardous circumstances (one APN staff person has been killed in the post-war violence sweeping Iraq) to attempt to alleviate some of the suffering of the people of Iraq.  He responded that seeing the benefits of APNs work-completing a new classroom and seeing a youngster who had previously been an illiterate shoeshine boy write his name on the board, or building a rural water plant and seeing people get clean water out of their taps for the first time-induced a feeling of joy that he had never experienced when working for wealthy clientele. He thought a moment and then said, "I never want to see another client as long as I live.  Now we see the good results of our labors, and it makes us happy."

 

Alexander is convinced that the motive for invading Iraq was to create a permanent military presence in the Gulf region.  "Those who control the flow of oil control the economy of the world."  Indeed, the New York Times reported at the end of February that the U.S. is building four large military bases in Iraq, suitable for long-term use. I asked Alex if he had any sense that the U.S. was attempting to foster democracy in Iraq.  His answer was, "No.  This would be a delicate and long-term proposition, and there is no evidence that any such process has been initiated.  Maybe it's too early; maybe it's too late."

 

It may be too late-or is it too early?-for us all unless more people learn to make the kind of choices Alexander made for his life: to take risks, to question authority, to take a stand for love, to become architects of peace rather than accomplices to war.  I would encourage people to think ecologically, act lovingly, and ensure that the resources flowing from their lives (including taxes) go only to life-affirming endeavors.

 

 "This is what you should do," advised Walt Whitman 150 years ago. "Love the earth and the sun the animals, despise riches, give alms to everyone that asks, stand up for the stupid and crazy, devote your income and labor to others, hate tyrants, argue not concerning god, have patience and indulgence toward people, take off your hat to nothing known or unknown, or to anyone or number of people... reexamine all you have been told at school or church, or in any book, dismiss what insults your soul, and your very flesh shall be a great poem."

 

Attachment: young child from village of Abu Siffa; her father was "detained" by US forces on December 16th and has not been heard from since.

 

For more information on Architects for People in Need see www.apn-ev.org

 

 

 

Sunday, February 29, 2004 7:06 AM letter 3

 

Seeking Justice in Liberation Square

 

Our CPT delegation recently joined the long-term Christian Peacemaker

Team in a public demonstration in downtown Baghdad to draw attention to

the plight of the thousands of Iraqis held in "detention" by the United

States military.  The total number of detainees is not known because the military does not release such records, in fact, it may not keep records of all those who are taken into custody.  The country-wide estimates for the total currently held vary from 10,000 to 150,000 Iraqis.  Detainees

by definition have not been charged with any crime, although some have

now been in jail for over eight months. 

 

From the information we have seen, many detainees are innocent of any

transgression.  For example, we spoke with one man at the demonstration

 

who was held for a month because his taxi driver had a gun in the car

when it was stopped by U.S. soldiers.  In a farming village that we

visited north of Baghdad, Abu Siffa, 8, men were arrested in December of

 

last year based on what the government now says was "misinformation." 

The men remain in custody in spite of their acknowledged innocence.

 

To express our concern for the detainees, we stood in "Liberation Square"

in downtown Baghdad one afternoon for two hours, holding large posters of men who have been held for several months or more.  We also held signs

that conveyed our concern that basic human dignity be preserved during

the occupation.  They read, in both Arabic and English, "The USA Must

Respect Human Rights," and "Give Detainees Their Legal Rights."

 

We were completely mobbed by Iraqis.  200 stood around us at any one

time, and at least 3000 stopped in the short time we were there.  At

regular intervals someone who spoke English would approach, either to

translate the thoughts of others in the crowd or express their own

perceptions.  I was compelled repeatedly to lay down my sign so that I

could transcribe their messages.  Some of those that I managed to capture

on paper are given below, along with the name of the speaker, when

known.  Often the commentaries were much longer than I could transcribe;

 

I tried to capture the most salient points.  I have not exercised any

selectivity in what is represented here; everyone that spoke to me seemed to opposed the U.S. occupation of Iraq.

 

Since the time of the demonstration we have had the opportunity to talk

to several influential members of Iraqi society: a former Iraqi

ambassador to the U.N., and to the head Shia cleric in Baghdad. Included below are some the insights that they shared about the challenges ahead for both the Iraqi people and for the United States.

 

Comments from Iraqis who stopped by at the demonstration:

 

Sa'di:

I am very glad to see you here.  Tell people in the United States that we need to be a democratic country.  We lost our voice under Saddam; you can help us find our voice.  But in the last 100 years the western countries have stolen everything from Iraq.  Saddam treated us like animals, and now with the occupation forces, we don't see any change.

 

Haji:

We hope that in coming days we will see more rights for Iraqi citizens,

but for now we have none.  How do you expect us to live with no

government and no economy?  As a retired agricultural engineer the CPA

(Coalition Provisional Authority) gives me a pension of 40,000 dinars a

month (about $37 dollars).  How do you expect me to live on 40,000 dinars a month?

 

The USA came here to occupy our country, not to give us freedom.  Where

are the human rights?  There are none.

 

The USA is like a million Saddams.

 

We need to get results.  There is maybe one month left to get results. 

The Iraqi people are very angry with the United States.

 

Where are the human rights?  We have no human rights. All people are

good, we are the same as the Americans, we are good people.  Why are you destroying Iraq?  We are poor.  Why destroy our homes?  Why bomb our buildings and fields?  Because you came for oil.

 

I had trouble with Saddam Hussein; he put me in jail.  People would ask

me, "Why don't you leave, you are in danger here?"  But this is my

country, I did not want to leave my country.  But now it is over; I am

going to leave.

 

Iraqis are good people, but now we are very angry.  There is an American writer-do you know him?-Mark Twain.  He said, "A small leak can sink a big ship."  Perhaps Iraq is the small leak that will sink the United

States.

 

Why are you telling us?  (I was holding a sign that said, in Arabic and

in English, "The USA Must Respect Human Rights")  Go tell the Americans.

 

We like all people even the Americans, but we want them to behave

properly.

 

Man in blue shirt, yelling:

Saddam-Bush; nothing has changed.  Before, we had the little boss, now

the big boss, now he real boss is here.  Saddam and Bush are the same. 

 

Mohammed:

Saddam was a little Ali Baba; Bush is a big Ali Baba (Ali Baba is a

famous thief in Arabic mythology).

 

Many people, many homes were destroyed by the Americans in my town of

Salahadin, many schools were destroyed.  I have friends who have been in Abu Garib prison, they were badly treated, left outside in the cold with no blanket.  There are many girls at the prison, now some are pregnant;

the American soldiers get drunk, they enter the girls, fike-fike, the

girls now are pregnant. 

 

Why do you have pictures (of detainees) from so few villages?  There are so many missing from so many villages. 

 

The Americans shot my brother and his arm was broken.  He has had five

operations to try to repair the damage.  Who do I talk to about help

paying for this?  I have sold the furniture in my home to try to pay the hospital bills.  My pension from the CPA is $20 a month.  Who can I talk to?  Will you help us?

 

I am old and sick.  My pension is only 3% of my original income.  I

cannot afford to buy medicine.  Who will help me?

 

The only freedom now in Iraq is for the fundamentalists, not for the

people. We need equality between women and men, but now women are afraid to even go out of their homes.  It's a wonderful thing, the

collapse of the regime, but the Americans carry guns everywhere and shoot everyone.  There is no freedom now. 

 

Samar, 16 years old

Why did the United States come to Iraq?  For oil.

 

*****

 

Immediately after the demonstration we flagged down a cab and darted

through Baghdad's torturous traffic to an appointment with Dr. Mussouyia, former Iraqi ambassador to the United Nations.  The opportunity to interview this erudite and articulate man offered a counterpoint to the generally poorly educated people we had encountered at Liberation Square, although his message seemed to be basically the same.  Some of his major

 

points, as best as I was able to transcribe them, were:

 

"We are in a very difficult situation-not only for us, but for the United States.  We have reached an impasse, in that the Americans have put themselves into a situation that they do not know how to get out of.  

The United States committed an international crime by invading Iraq. 

Even if Iraq had been in violation of UN Resolution 1441, which stated

that XXXXXX, that resolution gave no automatic right of aggression

towards one country by another.  There was no legal basis for this war.

 

So what we have is the illegal use of force followed by an illegal

occupation.  But George Bush did not understand what he was getting his

country into when he invaded Iraq; he does not know what to do next. 

What is needed is a way beyond the impasse that will allow the United

States to withdraw while retaining its dignity.

 

"The impact of recent U.S. policy toward Iraqi has been to fragment Iraqi society.  The impact of 12 years of economic sanctions and then the bombing, burning and looting of all government buildings except the oil ministry has been the impoverishment of an entire nation of people and

the dismantling of the state that held these people together. 

 

"The United States government may not like the Baath Party, but it should understand that all of the intellectuals and well-educated in Iraq belonged to this organization.  If these people are not allowed to

participate in the rebuilding of Iraq, the natural result will be the

rise of fundamentalism, and we will end up with a fundamentalist Islamic State. 

 

"As for the detainees, you know we are a small and interconnected

society.  Everybody has a family member who has either been killed in the war or has been detained in the U.S. prisons, or whose homes have been ransacked.  This only adds to the anger rising in the Iraq people at the American occupation of their country.

 

"It is my choice not to work for the government, the so-called Iraqi

Governing Council and the Coalition Provisional Authority.  If I did so I would feel like a collaborator with the occupier.  We Iraqis do not see any future for the occupation.  The only way out of this impasse, short of war, is for the United States to hand over responsibility for

government and security in Iraq to the United Nations, and then work with the international community to hold free and fair elections that

represent all people and all parties.

 

"You are doing a magnificent job, really, you are doing the impossible in your work here in Iraq.  Thank you very much from all the Iraqi people."

 

The following day we had the opportunity to interview the head Shia

cleric of the Baghdad area, Said Ali Alwaadh.  As is the custom through

much of the Arab world, we all, including Said Ali, sat on the carpeted

floor for our conversation together.  We all were fascinated to have this insight into the personality of a leading cleric, and carefully

scrutinized every facial and verbal expression of the man.  Said Ali

passed our cumulative test; he seemed to be a warm, well-adjusted, and

well-informed individual. 

 

We had the opportunity to ask in questions, and one of the first

was, "Why do you think the United States invaded Iraq?"  His response

was, "To remove Saddam Hussein, and we are very grateful that Saddam is

gone.  We call him 'Haddam,' which means 'destructive' in Arabic.  But

who made Saddam?  The CIA made him. (It is a matter of record that the

CIA was involved in the 1963 coup that brought the Baath Party to power).

 

"Right now we do not want the U.S. to leave Iraq; they are necessary for peace, for we have no government.  But if they stay after we have

elections, like they have in Afghanistan, then they are occupiers.

 

"American people, we wish you good health; we ask to stand with the

Iraqi people, who have suffered too much.  We ask you to help us with

elections, and then bring your soldiers home.  We know that your soldiers have families at home, and that they want to go home, and we want them to be able to go home. 

 

We wish you peace and health."

 

 

Sunday, February 29, 2004 10:52 AM

Letter 2 From Iraq

 

 

Making House Calls in Abu Siffa

 

The village of Abu Siffa is every bit as exotic as the name might suggest

to the mind of a westerner.  It is a small Iraqi farming community

resting tranquilly on the banks of the Tigris River, some 50 miles north

of Baghdad. The town consists of modest brick and stucco homes scattered

almost randomly among citrus groves, all inter-connected by narrow,

winding roadways and paths.  Inside, the homes are spare and comfortable,

with little in the way of furniture, but graced with wall-to-wall carpets

and pillows that evoke childhood images from Arabian Nights.  Women in

black abayas chatter and laugh as they pass along the paths, and flocks

of children flit about from field to town.  Overall it is an

exceptionally bucolic scene, and one suspects that it has changed little

in the 5000 years that agriculture has been practiced on this fertile

crescent of land along the Tigris.

 

At 2 AM on the night of December 16, 2003, the people of Abu Sifa were

startled awake by the roar of tanks and  trucks, humvees and 

helicopters, as the U.S. Army entered the village.  The 82nd Airborne

Division was paying a house call.  Acting on a tip, the Army was trying

to catch members of the armed resistance that has been confronting the

U.S. military occupation of Iraq.  Every house in the village was

surrounded, front doors were broken down, and the terrified occupants

ordered out into the yards in their nightclothes.  All the men present

were handcuffed, hooded with plastic bags over their heads, and taken

away.   Women and children were herded together in the dark night while

soldiers ransacked the homes, searching for weapons.  Few were found, but

$17,000 in Iraq dinars-savings belonging to the villagers-was taken by

U.S. soldiers as they rummaged through the villager's belongings.. 

 

On succeeding nights U.S. tanks returned and, after warning occupants to

vacate their homes, blasted several of them with tank shells and machine

gun fire. The house of the one suspected insurgent in the village was

torched by lighting a barrel of kerosene in the living room. Apparently

this dwelling belonged to a Baath Party official with links to Saddam

Hussein. 

 

The 83 Iraqi men taken from the village (which included 3 human rights

lawyers, 3 juveniles 14-16 years old, 10 secondary school teachers, and

the remaining 67 farmers, 14 of whom are 60-80 years old) were arrested

either because they were suspected resistance members, or in an effort to

intimate people in the area in order to dissuade them from collaborating

with opposition forces.  They have never been charged so it is not

known what their criminal offense was thought to be.  It has to date proved

impossible even for family members to visit these men.

 

When queried, the commander in charge of the operation, Colonel Nate

Sassaman, initially indicated that the raids and detentions were

necessary for "national security."  Now, two months hence, U.S. forces

admit that the detainees are only guilty by association, that is, they

live in the same village as the Baath official.  Nevertheless, none of

the men have been released, so that at this time the mothers and children

are missing their husbands and fathers, the school is missing its

teachers, and the fields are left untended.  

 

Our delegation of Americans and Canadians from Christian Peacemaker Teams

(CPT) was understandably anxious about how we would be received in Abu

Siffa when we visited, which we did on the 23rd of February, two months

after the U.S. army raids.  CPT works to persuade nations to resolve

difference by means other than armed conflict.  When war does occur, CPT

strives to reduce violence against civilians and to safeguard human

rights and human dignity by acting as witnesses and reporters in these

conflict areas.  We came to Abu Siffa, then, to gather information about

the raids, the damage inflicted, and status of the detainees. 

 

Sitting on rugs and pillows, with demitasses of hot Iraqi tea in hand, we

listened as the story of the raids unfolded.  This was recounted

primarily by the two men remaining in the village, Mohammed and Fawaz,

and by Hani, who joined the discussion from another village.  In the

course of an army raid in his town, Hani's father suffocated when a

plastic bag was placed over his head.  He  was asked by a member of our

group if he was seeking financial compensation from the U.S. for his

loss- one can only wonder how the loss of one's father be compensated for-his

response was that he only wanted us "to tell the truth" to the American

people.   

 

As we toured the village, the grace and humor that often seems to suffuse

the personalities of the Iraqi people began to emerge.  Women and

children greeted us warmly as we arrived at their bombed-out homes. They

smiled engagingly as we photographed them in front of these buildings,

and then they thanked us profusely when we showed them the digital images

on the tiny camera screens, even though we had no way of leaving a

photograph for them.  Children flocked around us and held our hands in

the midst of the 25 millimeter machine gun casings littering the ground,

 

spent cartridges from the very rounds that had blasted their houses. One

of our delegation members apologized for the path of destruction left by

our military forces and for the death of Hani's father.  From then on he

and Hani were inseparable, and walked together hand in hand. 

 

The Iraqi people hold hospitality in the highest esteem-so much so that I

have every confidence that if the raiding soldiers had stayed in the

village until morning, the people would have felt obliged to prepare them

breakfast.  The ten of us with CPT were ushered into a large, carpeted

room, where an extensive repast was laid on a tablecloth over the rugs.

 

Including an extended family of hosts gathering from more distant

domiciles, there were at least 20 people at the meal.  As guests, we felt

a mild terror that we would offend if we could not clean our plates of

the enormous quantities of food piled on them.  Our hosts, sensing our

fears, feigned indignation at first, but when we saw that even they were

not about to eat everything offered, we knew they were playing with us.

Soon it was time for us to make the return trip to Baghdad.  Back out at

our van there were hugs, laughter, and conviviality.  When a CPT member

took a moment to apologize again for the violence done by the U.S.

military to these people, the tears began to flow.  Hani seemed deeply

touched, and told us in his broken English, "Thank you for feeling, we

believe your feeling.  The drops that come from the eyes are very

meaningful to us.  Thank you for feeling."

 

Hani seems confident that if the American people know the truth about the

abuse of power in Iraq by the United States military-if they know the

truth not only about Hani's father but the thousands of civilian deaths

caused by the invasion of Iraq, and now the tens of thousands of Iraqis

being held in detention camps-then surely the American people will be

moved by their feelings to put and end to the injustices carried out in

their name.

 

Letters From IRAQ Feb 24th, 2004:

________________________________________________________________________

Message 1

 

Greetings from Baghdad;

 

Our small delegation of seven intrepid travelers made its way across the

 

near-lifeless plain that stretches the entire 500 miles between Amman,

Jordan and Baghdad on Saturday, February 21st.  Westerners typically make

the journey these days in new GMC Suburbans, and that is how we

traveled.  The highway has two lanes in each direction, an important

attribute given that there is a heavy flow of tractor-trailer trucks

hauling materiel into Baghdad.  Why there is not a reciprocal flow of

trucks in the opposite direction is a mystery.  Indications of war and

occupation are generally scarce out in this expanse of desert, excepting

 

the occasional missing overpass or burned out car along the wayside. 

Closer to Baghdad it becomes increasingly evident that we are in

contested territory.  For some miles on the outskirts of the city, all

the guardrails along the highway have been ripped out and tossed to the

side by the US military for tactical reasons (the actual rationale behind

this was unclear).   Also at the outskirts we passed several long

convoys

of heavy U.S. military equipment, guarded by squat humvees with machine

guns on the roof and low-flying helicopters. 

 

The level of anxiety among members of the group about going into Iraq at

 

this uncertain time varies.  I personally felt a wave of near nausea pass

over me at this odd choice of vacation spots before leaving the states;

fortunately this subsided.  One young man among us wavered in Amman,

wondering whether he wanted continue down the road to Baghdad.  There is

 

some risk involved; we were told yesterday that if the head Shia cleric

Ayatollah Sistani turned loose his army of adherents, "not one American

would leave the country alive" (Sistani has to date tried to be

conciliatory with the U.S.-appointed governing body).  We found no

comfort therefore in Paul Bremer's recent pronouncement that there would

 

be "no elections for at least 15 months."   In spite of dangers real and

 

imagined, everyone on the delegation feels it is appropriate to be

witnesses to the current state of affairs in Iraq, in which our country

has deemed it acceptable international behavior to invade and occupy

another.

 

A dominant impression after two days in Baghdad is that the urban

infrastructure of this society is in a state of disintegration.  Garbage

 

is commonly piled in the streets (there is little or no garbage pick-up),

soaked in places by raw sewage oozing out of decrepit underground pipes.

 

The air is thick with hydrocarbons belching from a million aging motor

vehicles, augmented by the roar of large diesel generators scattered

along each city block.  These are used to supplement the municipal power

 

supply, which currently offers up about 8 hours of electricity per day.

 

 

One of many ironies in Iraq today is the enormous amount of financial and

natural resources that have been expended to affect the political

situation here.  This includes $65 billion  to execute Gulf War I, $100

billion for the war portion on Gulf War II, and perhaps $200 billion

damage done to human infrastructure in those conflicts.   Throughout

this

time the lives of the 25 million people who inhabit this land has

suffered steady deterioration.  In striking contrast to this unfortunate

 

situation are the smiling, evidently happy children who inhabit this

urban wasteland.  The play and laugh among the putrid garbage and

crumbling buildings, oblivious to the darker forces that have for years

eaten away at the fundamental well-being of their culture.

 

We met yesterday (February 22) with the head of a hemotology (blood)

research center in Baghdad, as well as with the director of a human

rights group, and with a member of Christian Peacemaker Teams that has

been in Iraq for six months.  Dr. Ali Muslim is greatly troubled by the

declining health of his people and the general Western perception of Iraq

as a backwater society.  He pointed out that his country was a center of

 

higher forms of education not only back in the far reaches of history,

but also throughout much of the 20th century.  It has had, for example,

the most advanced medical system in the Middle East over the past

century.

 

It is another irony then that after three wars in rapid succession (two

Gulf Wars and the eight-year Iran-Iraq war) and 12 years of severe

economic sanctions imposed by the U.S. and the U.N, the Iraqi people now

 

have some of the lowest health standards in the world.  This includes

high rates of what Dr. Ali called "war-pollution induced blood

diseases."   He is greatly concerned about the 700 tons of uranium that

have been released into the environment in the two Gulf Wars (so-called

depleted uranium), but points out that this radioactive heavy metal is

only one of a plethora of military-industrial toxins unleashed on the

delicate tissues of the biological world by the heavy bombing of

industrial infrastructure.   While war may achieve temporary socio-

political ends, it clearly is not good for children and other living

things.

 

The director of Occupation Watch, Emam is well aware of Saddam Hussein's

 

role in the decline of Iraqi society from about 1980, which date marks

the inception of the 9-year Iran-Iraq war. In her view the United States

 

government was an equal partner in this phenomenon.  The U.S. government,

for example, sold $100 billion worth of weapons to Iraq through the

course of that war and offered considerable tactical  support to Iraq, in

order to prevent an Iranian victory.  At the same time the U.S. sold $10

 

billion worth of military hardware to the Iranians to prevent a clear

Iraqi triumph.  The end of this war was followed in quick succession by

the first Gulf War, 12 years of sanctions weekly bombing raids, and then

 

the second Gulf War.  In the wake of this extended abuse of the Iraqi

people, Eman felt she was perhaps in a 'nightmare' when she looked out a

 

window last April and saw American tanks on the streets of Baghdad.

 

Occupation Watch is documenting the unfortunate and inevitable abuse of

human rights that follows in the wake of the large-scale application of

violence.  Emam recites an unending, well-documented litany of illegal

behavior by American forces (see www.occupationwatch.org), including

random shootings (frightened soldiers typically spray bullets in all

directions when they are attacked, and innocent bystanders are often

hit), random arrests (in one recent community raid 84 individuals were

arrested and are being held without charge, while the individual actually

targeted in the raid was not found), and the blasting, burning and razing

of the homes of suspected resistance fighters. 

 

Eman initiated Occupation Watch because she wanted to "participate in the

development of a non-violent, anti-war and anti-occupation ethic" among

her people.  "I'm committed to justice, and what has happened to Iraq

over the past 15 years is a great injustice.  There should be a truth and

justice commission for the actions of both the Iraqi and the American

governments so that the people of the world understand what has been done

to the Iraqi people."  She spoke in no uncertain terms about the impact

of the U.S. occupation.  "Saddam Hussein was a petty dictator, the United

States is an international dictator...Americans are not preventing chaos,

they are creating chaos, they are not building, they are destroying. 

They should leave immediately."

 

Cliff Kindy is a part of a permanent team of Christian Peacemakers on the

ground in Iraq.  He is unusually dedicated to the exploration of the

powers of love, respect, justice and non-violence to improve and enhance

 

the human condition.  His world-view is informed and directed by his

Christian beliefs.  He works to build human inter-connectedness, and this

work brings him into contact with all of perspectives involved in the

on- going conflict in Iraq.  He regularly meets with U.S. military personnel,

and just as often travels into the "Sunni triangle" to investigate and

document the abuses of Iraqi people by that military.  He treats all

people with genuine respect and has won the trust of a wide spectrum of

people.

 

He has had opportunity to develop a relationship with the commander of

the 82nd Airborne Division that is in change of the restive Sunni

triangle.  He finds Colonel Nate Sussman to be gregarious and likable,

and open to discussions about the problems of the U.S. military in

Iraq .  Cliff told of one recent interaction when he had gone to

Sussman's military base to try to meet with the commander, and was at the

gate when a convoy of tanks rolled out.  As they passed the CPT

delegation, one of tanks pulled over to the road's edge and the good

colonel himself, having recognized Kindy, popped out of the hatch for a

friendly chat.  After an exchange of pleasantries, Cliff offered an

genuine invitation to the commander to consider leaving the occupation

force and joining the CPT "peace force" in it's inquiry into the "road

less traveled," that poorly-explored capacity of love and respect for

human dignity to resolve conflict in human societies.  Sussman respond

that he was eligible for retirement in 18 months, and by gosh he would

seriously consider Cliff's suggestion.  He then climbed back into his

tank a drove off to conduct another village raid.  

 

Robert Frost once observed two roads diverging in a yellow wood, and for

 

him, taking "the one less traveled" made "all the difference."   Roads

are of course always diverging, in the woods of New England where Frost

ambled, on dusty backroads of Iraq that our tanks now travel on their way

out to humble farm villages, as well as through the mysterious pathways

of the human heart.  That road less traveled is always an option.

 

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